3 Days on Lake Como: A Summer Escape

Lake Como in late July is exactly the kind of Italian summer people daydream about at their desks: villa gardens tumbling down to the water, ferries crisscrossing between towns, and long lunches that stretch into the afternoon heat. Three days is enough to see why it's stayed a favorite for centuries.

Day 1: Como Town and Brunate

Start in Como town itself, at the lake's southern tip, and take the funicular up to Brunate for panoramic views over the whole basin. Wander the old town's arcaded streets and see the marble Duomo before the afternoon heat sets in, then cool off with a swim or a ferry ride north.

Day 2: Bellagio and the Villas

Take the ferry to Bellagio, the town sitting right where the lake's three branches meet. Visit the gardens at Villa Melzi or Villa Serbelloni, both open to visitors in summer, then get lost in Bellagio's steep, flower-lined stairways. Have a late lunch on a terrace overlooking the water before catching an afternoon boat onward.

Day 3: Varenna and Menaggio

Varenna is the quietest of the lake's showpiece towns; walk the lakeside Passeggiata degli Innamorati and visit the gardens at Villa Monastero. Cross to Menaggio in the afternoon for a swim at the lido and a look at the shops along its waterfront promenade before heading back to Como for a final dinner.

Practical notes: Ferries are the easiest way to get around the lake and run frequently in summer; buy a day pass if you're island-hopping between towns. July weekends get crowded with day-trippers from Milan, so weekday visits are noticeably calmer. Book villa garden visits online ahead in peak season.

Where to Stay

Budget: Como town has the most affordable options and the best transport links, with simple hotels from around $110 a night.

Mid-range: Varenna's small lakefront hotels offer some of the best value-to-view ratio on the lake, typically $200-300 a night in summer.

Splurge: Grand Hotel Tremezzo and Villa d'Este are the lake's two legendary properties, both with floating pools and gardens that rival the public villas, from $900 a night in July.

Where to Eat

Il Gatto Nero above Cernobbio: A hillside trattoria with sweeping lake views, worth the taxi ride for the setting alone as much as the classic Lombard cooking.

Silvio in Bellagio: A family-run lakefront spot known for lake fish caught by the owners themselves, more affordable than most of Bellagio's other waterfront restaurants.

Any gelateria in Varenna: The lakeside gelato stands here are a genuine highlight after a hot day of walking, best enjoyed on a bench along the water.

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