Europe’s Second-Best Christmas Market Opens Today Without Its Ice Rink

People gathered around a lit carousel at a winter market

Edinburgh’s Christmas market opens today, Saturday, November 14, and arrives with a fresh endorsement. Time Out’s travel team has ranked it the second-best Christmas market in Europe, behind only Nuremberg, the German city whose Christkindlesmarkt is often treated as the benchmark for the whole genre. The Scottish capital’s festive season runs until January 3, giving visitors seven weeks to catch it.

The market is spread across East and West Princes Street Gardens, St Andrew Square and George Street, with around 80 wooden chalets selling food, drink and gifts beneath the castle. The rides are a big part of the draw: the LNER Big Wheel returns, joined by an 80-metre Starflyer and a helter skelter. A Valhalla-themed ice bar, kept at minus 8 degrees Celsius, is due to open on November 21.

One familiar feature is missing this year. The George Street ice rink has been cancelled, with organisers pointing to high costs and the uncertainty that followed a fire on Princes Street earlier in 2026. For many families the rink was a seasonal ritual, so visitors who had planned a skating session will need to look elsewhere in the city or further afield.

For travelers, the practical point is timing. Weekends in late November and December are the busiest stretch, and hotel prices in the Old and New Towns rise with demand, especially as Hogmanay approaches. Weekday evenings are usually calmer, and the city’s compact centre makes it easy to combine the market with Edinburgh Castle, the Royal Mile or a day trip by train elsewhere in Scotland.

Sources: Time Out, Edinburgh’s Christmas

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